Turmi is a village in the Southern region of Ethiopia. It’s part of the villages in the Omo Valley area, and naturally one of the hardest places to reach. The only public transport comes by way of trucks that you will wait hours to catch. In fact, the transport is so testing, people who live here would rather walk for hours on end than wait for a trucks/bus that may or many not arrive. Home to many of the Hamer people, Turmi has a weekly market on Mondays. One product available at this market is incised gourds, used by local women as shopping basked. Turmi is also notable for its traditional dances and the bull jumping ceremony, when Hamer men jump over bulls to prove their masculinity. My night here was very organic: sleep under the stars with the sounds of a billion shrilling crickets, and hang out in my kanga because Hamer tribes don’t dress much.
The landscape is worth waiting hours for transport to move between villages.
Day break Africa 🙂
These gourds serve as everything from coffee mugs to shopping baskets and storage for eggs.
From Tumri, I went to a friend’s homestead in the village, where there is absolutely no trace of modern life. It remains one of the most amazing experiences of my life.
Turmi at sunset
Street shot, Turmi
The streets of Turmi
Market day fashion…well, a Hamer woman’s every day fashion actually.
I can still smell the fresh air
a typical homestead has several huts and kraals for animals.
Busua on Ghana’s beautiful coastline takes long to get to. But the simplicity of this village and its tourist-free vibe make it a must. Here’s a slice of a part of Ghana that, though overshadowed in stature by Elmina, Kokrobitey and Cape Coast, is one of the best slices the country.
Beach life in Busua.
Da View 🙂
The streets of Busua
The best pan cakes ever
Beach life in Busua
Stone is the perfect host.
My kinda bar: simple, cheap and no riff raft.
The seafood is fresh, yummy and cheap.
The streets of Busua
The streets of Busua
Three things make it a blast in Ghana: music, cold star beer and laughter.
Sankore aka Stone’s place: the beer is ice cold, the music is mostly rid dims and the split? Well, I ain’t telling
View from the beach front
Always bound to see a colourful pirogue
Amandla sister: a woman so strong people beg her to take it easy. She is so bold, so determined to live in her power 24/7 that fear means nothing to her. The only thing that matters to an Amandla sister is victory: she will sooner sacrifice her happiness than live without the power that comes with being a self-determing woman with her own damn mid and own damn plans. The original Amandla sisters are women known as Les Amazons. They were an army of 3000 women whose war cry was, “Let the men look after the kids.” They were fearless and fearsome. They would sooner cut off their breasts than lose a battle. And they used to cut off their breasts if the va-va boom slowed down their aim on the battlefield. They are my heroes: fierce African women who took shit from no one. Their ambition came first, their families second and their enemies came in their hands, when their heads were delivered to King Ghezo, of the Kingdom of Dahomey, who insisted on having a female army because they were that fierce. Dahomey is known as Benin today, but there are still traces of the old Kingdom in Abomey, where the Kings’ palaces still stand. These pictures were taken at the remains of the palace. No pictures are allowed inside the Kings’ old stomping ground, where Ghezo’s throne sits on the skulls of four of his greatest enemies. You are not allowed to go to the Kings’ graves on Monday because it’s a market day, and West Africa is not a region that takes protocol lightly.
He of the Amandla sisters.
A modest space for powerful Kings…
The palace is now a UNESCO world heritage site.
The slave coast is a must; but leave your tears at home because no-one here has time to dwell on sadness.
It’s not just Ghana that is mad about beads. But only in Ghana will you find a bead market that has been going strong every Thursday since 1928.
There are beads from around Ghana, Mali, Benin, Senegal, Nigeria and Mauritiana.
The brass bracelets have been in the traders family for generations. They are not for sale. He displays them every market day just so we can all share in his family’s heritage.
Hand made and each as unique as a finger print.
Jinja in Uganda is the adrenalin capital of East Africa. The beautiful village of Bujagali is the heart of it all.
The Nile River
“I can’t think of anything that excites a greater sense of childlike wonder than to be in a country where you are ignorant of almost everything. Suddenly you are five years old again. You can’t read anything, you have only the most rudimentary sense of how things work, you can’t even reliably cross a street without endangering your life. Your whole existence becomes a series of interesting guesses.” ~ Bill Bryson